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GASTRONOMY IN "GOLFO DEI POETI" AND MAGRA VALLEY
INTRO Portus Veneris and the Roman city of Luni that stood on Portus
Lunae extend over a large and beautiful part of La Spezia Province
which, like few other places in Italy, boasts an incredible blend of
blues and greens.
The distant horizons of the sea alternate with the
sharp outlines of the hills in a complicated puzzle that
creates remarkable views that change from day to day and season to
season.
There are signs of a human presence closely bound to the earth
and its traditions, deriving from historical events that have marked
the centuries. Intense trading, pirate raids, and wars did not prevent
the women of La Spezia from perpetuating and strengthening emotional
bonds by playing major roles in these events.
They raised their children while the men went to sea seeking their fortunes, they tended
their gardens and managed their farms. These were women who only
needed to follow their own maternal instinct and the simple,
spontaneous advice from their mothers to give flavor and substance to
their cooking. Theirs is a 'poor cuisine', based on local resources
and not codified in elaborate recipes. But then, is 'poor cuisine' the
right way to describe cooking based on flavors and freshness, fish and
seafood, natural vegetables and herbs and the skillful use of olive
oil? Even today, in spite of technologically advanced equipment, the
old motions, in handling flour to make dough for tagliatelle and
lasagna noodles, have a special meaning. They are proof of a heritage
and respect for such an important ingredient. In fact grain, not
flour, was transported by sea (flour would have absorbed the moisture
and the salt).
The grains were then ground at mills which, mainly in the XVII
century, were established near rivers and streams. Fishing has never
been an easy trade. Nets didn't last very long, and boats had to be
rowed, sometimes for hours on end. Old fishermen tell about how they
had to wrap their oars in rags so they wouldn't frighten away schools
of anchovies and make their trip in vain. Part of the anchovy catch
was used immediately, the rest was salted in barrels.
The women of Lerici used to carry fish-filled baskets on their heads to the inland
village markets. Grains, like legumes became part of the province's
cuisine along with vegetables and the meat of barnyard animals; a
seafaring destiny tied the people to land-locked flavors. This
apparent contradiction proved useful in later years to create a
reputation for cooking that has become highly sought after by
visitors. Between Portovenere and Luni, passing through Lerici,
Tellaro, Sarzana and Val di Magra in many places it is possible to
taste the tempting interpretations of dishes prepared by skilled chefs
who have the best natural ingredients available from the sea, the
rivers and the hillsides practically at the kitchen door, starting
with the wine.
San Pietro point at Portovenere is a piece of unique
beauty: Palmaria, Tino, the cliffs and the extraordinarily 'Ligurian'
landscape form a fantastic whole. Lovers of good food have personal
reasons, as it were, to emphasize the special virtues of this typical
village that had been much fought over by Genoa and Pisa because of
its strategic location. Even then, centuries ago, sea dates were
already known. Documents dating from the XIII century attest to their
value - today harvesting them is forbidden.
They are rare and delicious mussels (Litophaga litophaga). Their life cycle is extremely long, and in fact, in the local
parlance, an old person is described as 'being older than a sea date'.
Federico Barbarossa demanded shields filled with them as tribute from
the lords of Vezzano. Today, however, even he would have to bend
before the law. Things had gone so far in recent times that explosives
were being used to open the date-rich rocks in indiscriminate
harvesting - or poaching - causing serious environmental damage. Sea
date soup was a sublime dish, and there are thousands who remember the
taste. There are mussel farms located just opposite Portovenere.
They were started towards the end of the XIX
century and today use well proven techniques. The mussels are completely
cleansed in the plant built for that purpose at Santa Teresa. "Negrao",
"Caran", "La Pia": for natives of La Spezia province
these words mean the smell of stuffed and fried anchovies, the intense
odor of mussels alla marinara, dried, stewed codfish swimming in sauce,
sumptuous meat-filled ravioli, the joy of a good rabbit prepared "alla
cacciatora" or breaded and fried, then a glass of tangy wine to wash
down a slice of chestnut cake. Signs outside old taverns, sanctuaries
of La Spezia's culinary tradition, draw people to where the cult of gastronomic
delights is continuously reinvigorated on the basis of 'mesciua' and 'farinata'
a local porridge.
 'La
mesciua' is a tempting combination of chick peas, beans and spelt that
are cooked separately and then mixed together with olive oil and pepper.
Served hot, it's ideal in winter, while in spring it should be only slightly
warm. Naturally, everyone has the secret that will guarantee the best
dish ever of a grain and legume soup that has been known since ancient
Roman times. The 'porridge', or 'farinata' as it's known locally comes
originally from Rome: a thin mixture of chick-pea flour, olive oil and
water cooked in large pots in wood-burning ovens.
The high temperature causes evaporation and
in a few minutes the 'farinata' is amber-yellow with a few dark spots
from the heat here and there, while a slightly acrid odor of oil fills
the air. Lerici and Portovenere form the ends of the Gulf of La Spezia
and share enchanting views of dawn and twilight.
This means that visitors
can stay as long as they like and be sure of enchanting panoramas and
gastronomic delights. lf sea dates can be part of the Portovenere
seal, Lerici could well use the octopus. Yes, octopus, described at
length by D.H. Lawrence in 1913, when he was overwhelmed by the
irresistible charm of Tellaro. In a letter to a friend he wrote about
the legend of Tellaro where the church is on the water. One night the
church bell suddenly began to ring.
The people awoke frightened of a
pirate raid, but soon they realized that it was only a large playful
octopus pulling on the bell cord that reached down to the rocks. The
octopus has eight tentacles and is extremely intelligent. lt can
camouflage itself skillfully on the ocean floor since it is highly
sought after. lt's good tasting and easy to prepare. The hard part is
catching one: their strength is proportional to their size.
A few days in the fridge is fine too. Those who have not given in to
pressure cookers boil them - with the usual seasonings - and a cork.
There are no dangers in this, so it's just as well to follow
tradition. Then, of course, a sprig of chopped parsley, minced with
garlic and olive oil. Some cooks add lemon juice and oregano. In
restaurants it's a tempting appetizer and at home it's a complete meal
when served with potatoes; and a great variation is to sautee it with
potatoes and tomatoes.
Just outside Lerici, along the inland road
we come to the turnoff for Montemarcello and Ameglia. The scenery
changes: the horizon is cut by the stretch of sand of nearby Versilia
and the white peaks of the Apuan Alps that frame the Luni plain and
surrounding hills. Right below, we can see the mouth of the Magra
river. immediately after World War II, Bocca di Magra was a favorite
summertime haunt of the publisher Einaudi and his intellectual
friends, including Cesare Pavesi. Poets, writers and artists have
maintained a long relationship with this quiet place that has remained
a holiday favorite.
The good food in many restaurants - with menus
ranging from thin noodles (taglioni) with fish sauce to mixed grilled
fish platters to stewed ray - is an excellent excuse for a visit. The
setting is unusual and enchanting: the sea and river meet, and the
salty mist blends with the fragrance of vegetable gardens. Excellent
quality lettuce, artichokes, celery, tomatoes, zucchini squash, and
basil are picked and sold each morning at the Pallodola market. One of
the Lunigiana's oldest traditions is the 'focaccette', flat loaves
baked in special, refractory pans.
Warm and crispy, they are wonderful in September at the wine fair held
at Baccano di Arcola. The quality of the ingredients, the tranquility
of the area and its strategic position - the Magra Valley and Luni
Hills are easily reached by all means of transportation - inspired
Angelo Paracucchi the world renowned gastronome to build his inn here.
Angelo Paracucchi laid the foundations for a good part of his success
right here at Sarzana.
Naturally, he brought some fame to the area
too: the cooking courses at the Locanda dell'Angelo are among the most
popular. Paracucchi, author of a book on modern creative cooking has
also dedicated a volume to gastronomy in the Lunigiana area. Now we
are near the amphitheater at Luni, the domus decorated with fine
marbles and the museum. For gourmets-errant and art history lovers
there are several good reasons for stopping. Just a short distance
from the ancient Roman ruins and the old Portus Lunae, lt's possible
to blend food and freshness, gastronomic delights and delightful
strolls among aviaries and majestic willow trees.
Tuscany is just a
stone's throw away as we can see from the Medieval villages of Ortonovo and Nicola at the far end of Liguria. The Nicola town square
has a charm all its own. On Easter morning the village men play
"manda" with their bare hands hitting a metal ball and rags according
to ancient rules. Originally, the game was played to mark the end of
the hunting season.
Right near this unusual "playing field" we come to
the Cervia, an inn made famous by Gertrude who cooked wonderful
ravioli and delicious crabs. The reputation has remained. Tagliatelle,
lasagna and ravioli are still made by hand. A typical specialty of
Nicola is "sfogliolata", a very thin, flat, twisted loaf baked with
sage. Rabbit, chicken and guinea hen complete the country-style lunch
which, in good weather is served outdoors in the village square.
From Nicola we can see the skyline of Castelnuovo Magra with the
bell tower (the church houses an important Crucifixion by Bruegel the
Younger), the tower of the castle of the Bishops of Luni and the
facades of the nineteenth century buildings. Agritourism flourishes
here, and La Cascina dei Peri at Montefrancio is not to be missed. In
addition to wine and olive oil, Giovanni and Angiola serve cold cuts,
kid, rabbit, guinea hen, vegetables, and have rooms for overnight
stays.
The historic center of Castelnuovo also boasts Armanda. The
place seats about 25 people, but the food is divine. Vegetable pies,
mainly zucchini squash and artichoke, codfish fritters, boned and
stuffed rabbit, tripe, stuffed lettuce, minestrone, hearty
tagliatelle, with pesto and olive oil, fried lamb: the artist's touch
is evident in every portion of a sequence that reaches
unbelievable peaks.
The valley is proud of at least two other dishes:
the 'sgabei' and the 'testaroli' (or panigacci). The sgabei are
closeiy related to fried dumplings and 'crescentine' from Emilia.
Raised bread dough is pressed and cut into losenge shapes that are
fried in hot olive oil a few at a time. The testaroli get their name
from a flat, cast-iron cooking utensil into which a water and flour
batter is poured. The heat quickly dries these unusual crepes that are
served with olive oil and grated parmesan (or pecorino) cheese or with
pesto. Panigacci are actually unleavened loaves that resemble dry
breads that must be moistened before eating. Testaroli and sgabei are
favorite local snacks. And desserts? The famous rice cake made here is
only known in Carrara.
Sarzana vies with Brescello and Reggio Emilia as the home of the
'spongata' (or 'spungata' in Ligurian dialect). The name comes from
the spongy appearance of the sugar topping that is prepared in a
special way. The basic concept is identical to the panforte or spiced
cakes. The version by Silvano Gemmi, the skilled baker whose shop is
in Via Mazzini and who still has old, wooden baking dishes, is famous.
The antiques fair and the flea market held in the center of Sarzana in
August, and many other events that attract visitors to the city have
contributed to the success of "Spongata", a delightful symbol for the
valley's capital. The filling is made of fruit preserve, and the
outside this is the controversial point - is made of puff or short
pastry. 'Buccellato', an airy, ring-shaped cake is another highlight
among the local baked goods. The creations in the windows are matched
by the fragrances that come from the bakeries and kitchens - just
enough to lead anyone down the path of gastronomic temptation.
But there is no need for worry, a walk in woods or through the
countryside, looking for castles or interesting views, will work off
any little excesses. Until a few years ago, Sarzana was the wine
capital of the Luni Hills district. And in August the town hosted a
wine festival. Now the Enoteca Pubblica della Liguria e della
Lunigiana at Casteinuovo Magra has the role of promoting local wines
and agricultural products. It is located in the cellars of the town
hall, that have been appropriately restored, and the Enoteca's
promotional activities will soon be going full scale.
The wine, Vermentino dei Colli di Luni, which recently became DOC is made on the
small farms that dot the hillsides overlooking the Magra valley. Here
the well-restored farms offer good shelter, fine food and excellent
hospitality. La Spezia is earning itself a fine reputation for
liqueurs thanks to the lemon, mandarin orange, basil and strawberry
wines prepared by Fiorella Stoppa in her tiny workshop in the heart of
town.
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